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Gabriel Kreuther Probably Deserves More Than One Michelin Star
August 23rd, 2016 by donuts4dinner

Chef Gabriel Kreuther left the Michelin-starred Modern a couple of years ago and took his pastry chef with him to open up his new namesake space in the Grace Building across from Bryant Park. Beloved from the get-go, the restaurant earned a Michelin star of its own in its first year, but having tried the 4-course, $125 tasting menu a few weeks ago, I can’t imagine that it won’t gain another star or even two in the coming years.

It wasn’t as fussy as the three-Michelin-starred favorites in the city thanks to touches of whimsy here and there in elements like a stork-patterned wallpaper (the stork is a symbol of rebirth in Kreuther’s native Alsatian homeland), but the main dining room felt classic and elegant with its cushy cream banquettes and exposed wood beams. The food was stunningly beautiful but still at times a little silly, and I mean that in the best way. Who doesn’t want a mezcal cocktail served in a coconut shell in the middle of a frou-frou French meal?

I lived for the many loaves of bread that came out between courses and love a chef who makes me unable to resist ordering sweetbreads even though I sort of can’t believe that’s something we choose to eat as humans. But I mean, these were fried in duck fat. The sturgeon and sauerkraut tart is a must-order just for the dramatic smoke-filled dome presentation, and my blackberry chocolate dessert actually made meringue seem like more than just crunchy air. The flavors were bold, and there was always just that ~something~ on the plate–a celery leaf or a sprinkle of pancetta–that I wouldn’t have thought to put there.

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu

Creams and pinks and golds! Did I design this restaurant in my dreams?

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
buttery, crusty bread

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
a closeup of that chive fromage blanc

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
queso frito, passion fruit tostones, masa-yucca empanada

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
coffee-coconut cocktail with mezcal and a brown sugar crumble

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
foie gras terrine & black truffle praline, muscat gelée, seven grain toast

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
langoustine tartare, flying fish roe, cauliflower-macadamia purée

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
another helping of bread

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
sturgeon & sauerkraut tart, American caviar mousseline, applewood smoke

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
crispy sweetbreads roasted in duck fat, honshimeji, pancetta, pasilla

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
still more bread!

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
Nova Scotia halibut, celery root, hen of the woods, riesling-cockle sauce

(Someone doesn’t know how to focus her camera, sorry.)

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
roasted diver scallops, basil crumble, early spring vegetable nage

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
a sphere of melon on vanilla espuma

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
Comfort: cherry almond, sautéed cherries, almond mousseline, sablé breton

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
Decadent: blackberry chocolate, chocolate mousse, blackberry gelée, lemon verbena meringue

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
chocolates shaped like baby French macarons!

Gabriel Kreuther Tasting Menu
basically Pocky for grown-ups

Gabriel Kreuther
41 West 42nd Street
New York, NY 10036 (map)


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